Lisbon is hot right now, and I don’t mean the temperature. Although in summer the mercury does rise. And the peri-peri can be rather spicy too. But I digress.
We first had the pleasure of visiting Portugal’s capital a decade ago. Unmistakably European with grand squares, spectacular monuments and tales of colonial conquest.
It felt like the sort of city that should be seeing a lot more tourism. Clearly the likes of Paris, Rome and Barcelona stole the spotlight on itineraries. Not anymore. Lisbon and Portugal are enjoying a renewed amount of interest. And you can thank the Global Financial Crisis for that. And of course its amazing food, people and culture. Whilst the GFC had a negative impact the world over, out of its ashes, the phoenix that is Portugal has risen.
The Portugal tourism boom
Portugal was the ‘P’ in the dreaded SPIG (Spain, Portugal, Italy and Greece) economies. These were at the core of the European component of this meltdown and required a bailout from the IMF. It hit Portugal hard, and saw reports of up to 40% unemployment amongst under 25s.
Along with a raft of economic policies, tourism has been a strong lever to help Portugal back to growth. And with tourism making up 20% of the country’s Gross Domestic Product, help it has. Since the debilitating GFC, Portugal’s significant growth in tourist numbers has helped it out of its financial malaise. Government policies designed to increase tourism have worked. The last 8 years have seen some of the highest growth in tourism within the European Union.
Whilst Portugal is well on the road to recovery, the impacts of the GFC are still felt. You’ll notice a lot of graffiti and posters throughout Lisbon with a socialist slant. Clearly not everyone is convinced of (or benefiting from) the success. Whatever the case, the many policies implemented have at least for now seemed to have helped Portugal get back on its feet.
Although its recent history helps better understand where Portugal is today, you didn’t land on this page for an economic play by play. Lisbon is a destination with amazing food, a vibrant nightlife and importantly, warm weather.
The hills of Lisbon will be your nemesis as you explore the city. You’ll forgive them in time for the lactic acid build up in your legs. For non-hill lovers, do not despair. There are many ways to avoid them with excellent public and private transport options.
How much time for a visit to Lisbon
Deciding how much time you need in Lisbon is a tricky one. You could pack in all of the sights into a weekend. But then again, Lisbon is best enjoyed at a slower pace. Nibbling a pasteis de nata is so much better than inhaling it. Our recommendation would be to enjoy the following over a period of 3-4 days.
Read on for everything you need to know and do in Lisbon!
Getting there
The majority of visitors to Lisbon will arrive via one of two ways. Either a train from (or to Porto) or via the airport. Either option is very easy to navigate.
Lisbon International Airport
The Metro
The metro is the cheapest way to reach Lisbon from the airport. This trip will cost you one trip (€1.50) on your Viva Viagem card or one trip (€1.33) using the ‘Zapping’ option. Read the ‘Getting Around’ section below for further details on the metro process. There is one change required and you’ll be in the centre of Lisbon in ~25 minutes.
Uber
If it’s pouring rain (that was our welcome!) or you’ve got some serious luggage that makes the metro a little harder to bear, Uber is available. The trip took us ~30 minutes and cost €8 to the door of our apartment (just outside the centre of the city).
By train
If arriving in Lisbon post a trip to Porto, your train will end up at Santa Apolonia train station. It’s located on the edge of the Alfama district. Taxis and tuk-tuks will eagerly await to offer you a fare if you need a vehicle.
We made use of the metro getting to and from here. Santa Apolonia is the last station on the Blue metro line. Read below for further information on purchasing your Viva Viagem metro card and finding your way to your next destination.
We used Omio to book our trains in Portugal.
Getting around
Lisbon is an easy city to navigate. There are many ways to get around and *cough, cough* avoid some of those rolling hills. But there is one thing that will help above all else.
Viva Viagem card – your ticket for the metro, trams, buses, funiculars and CP (regional) trains
Despite our Portuguese being limited, the transport system is clear, well planned and easy to understand.
To get started, you’ll need a Viva Viagem card. It’s a reloadable card that can be topped up at any metro station using one of the automated booths. There is an English option, so you can purchase your ticket in English by following the prompts.
The card has a one off issuance fee of €0.50.
With your card topped up, you’ll need to put some credit on it. With a minimum €3 top up, there are two different ways to use your credit.
Top up by trip
A single one way trip will cost you €1.50. That will get you from metro station to metro station. You can load as many of these trips as you like.
Top up with credit – ‘Zapping’
The Zapping option works like most global transport cards. Load an amount of your choosing. A trip from metro to metro on this option will cost you €1.33 (a saving of 11%).
You can also choose an unlimited 24 hour option for €6.40. If you purchase at midday, your credit will be available until 11.59am the next day. Given the aforementioned steep hills, it can economical and sensible option depending on your plans.
The big advantage with the Viva Viagem is that you can use the ticket on the CP train too. This is important if you’re planning on heading to Caiscais or Sintra. It really is a jack of all trades card.
If you leave any credit on your card, you won’t be able to get it back. So just make sure you’re loaded up, but not more than you’ll use.
The Lisbon Card
Without causing added confusion, but depending on your itinerary, the Lisbon Card may also be an excellent option for your visit. The Lisbon card is available in 24, 48 and 72 hour versions. It enables free use of public transport (in place of the Viva Viagem card). Additionally, it enables free entry to numerous sites. Click here for more information on the card.
With planning, the card will help you pack in a disproportionate amount of value. That, and helping you skip the line too. Personally, we’d recommend the 24 hour version. Schedule your ‘Lisbon Card’ activities in a 24 hour period. An example of its use might be to start at the Jeronimos Museum. Then move onto Belem Tower and visit 1-2 of the museums to maximise its value in both transport and cost of entry.
You can purchase your Lisbon card below and be ready to explore.
Buy your Lisbon Card online now | From €20
Where to stay
We had a delightful apartment. Located a short, but extremely steep hike from the Marquis de Pombal metro station. Well connected on the metro, it had some excellent local restaurants. The area is also home to many of the major hotel chains. The very non-looking Ritz was located opposite, so it’s a popular place to stay for tourists.
If we were planning a trip once more to Lisbon, we’d look to stay in the Bairro Alto district. There are a range of apartment rentals available here and has that smaller town, local vibe. Limited traffic and a high quality range of restaurants made this area appealing to us. A few of the recommendations below are from this area, so it may help explain our interest!
Lisbon is an affordable destination to travel. Without cliche, there is legitimately something for all budgets.
Eating
Time Out market Lisboa
A first of its kind for Time Out, Time Out Market Lisboa brings together an array of outstanding Portuguese chefs under one roof. We aren’t talking a casual range of food stands here. Some of the best chefs for Portugal have congregated to provide a premium food market experience.
Hand picked by Time Out upon application, I will suggest it will be difficult to have a bad meal here. We couldn’t try every vendor, but did our best.
There is no shortage of options. You’ll find local soups, cold and hot meats, plus international flavours including sushi, burgers and some Asian fusion. You’ll also find Lisbon’s favourite gelato shop here too. Here’s a few of the excellent restaurants we sampled.
Manteigaria Silva
These guys know a thing or two about meat and cheese. They’ve been serving up delectable charcuteries since 1890. There are varying sizes available depending on your party size. We’d recommend making sure you start with one of these before moving onto another vendor.
Henrique Sa Pessoa
If you like pork, then look no further. The 24 hour suckling pork is amazing. There is often a line, but be assured the wait is worth it. The pork melts in your mouth and is accompanied by the sweetest sweet potato purée.
O Surf and Turf by Chef Kiko Martins
A little more expensive than most outlets, they also have their own seating which may be a blessing on a busier day. The speciality here as the name suggests is both surf and turf. They do some amazing things with pork and shrimp in particular. We enjoyed the risotto topped with a pork popcorn, a delectable ceviche and mouth watering pork and shrimp spring rolls to start.
Santini
Lisbon’s favourite gelato shop was started by an Italian immigrant. He saw saw an opportunity to deliver exceptional gelato. And outside of Italy, this may be about as good as it gets. There is an extensive list of gelato flavours including some custom specials. We visited just after Easter and enjoyed one of the custom Easter flavours.
The Time Out Lisboa markets are a hit. They are popular amongst tourists and locals alike. On the weekend and public holidays and I imagine in the height of summer, you may struggle to get a seat. Exercise some patience, and perhaps aim for an earlier or later lunch. We’d also suggest you secure a seat before you get your food. You may risk wandering about trying to find a seat whilst your 24 hour suckling pig gets cold.
A Cerviceria
Having enjoyed our experience at O Surf and Turf, that introduced us to Chef Kiko Martins. He has a bit of a reputation it seems on the food scene. Specialising in Peruvian cerviche, with some Portuguese infusion. If you are a fan of ceviche, then dining here isn’t an option, it’s an absolute must.
You’ll find this restaurant in Bairro Alto. It will be easy to identify- it’s the restaurant with the giant octopus hanging from the roof.
There is a no reservation policy, so head straight here. Another one which might be best visited a little earlier or later at lunch time to avoid a queue. We were lucky enough to be seated within a few minutes at around 2.30pm.
Alcoa
It’s difficult to come to Lisbon and not consume a disproportionate amount of sugar. The Portuguese are so good at making sweet things. At Alcoa, you’ll find many pastries including pasteis de nata. But we’d recommend looking past that and try their iconic, cornucopia. It’s their trademark and a delicious conical of sweet goodness.
Artis Bar
Also located in Bairro Alto, this bar opens from ~5.30pm each evening. You’ll wander past some other bars. Skip those and get here.
Whilst this is a wine bar, the food is their real secret. We enjoyed one of the best chorizos I’ve ever tasted. Cooked in front of you, the cooking experience itself is memorable, little own the taste. The sautéed shrimp is a wonderful accompaniment. A great place for an early dinner before taking in some fado.
Things to do
The number 28 tram
World famous, this tram takes you on the best circuit of Lisbon. It’s incredibly popular and you won’t be alone, but it is worth braving the lines for. It rollicks up the hills as the driver changes tracks with his manual looking contraption. We’d recommend sitting or standing right behind the driver. It’s a fascinating watch to get a good look at him operating this antiquated tram.
Be sure to keep your hands and arms inside the tram at all times. In some parts, you can almost reach out (don’t!) and touch the buildings as you ascend the narrow streets. It is quite possibly the most fun you can have on public transport anywhere in the world.
This is one of those exceptional Lisbon experiences. It also provides a great way to get your bearings of the city. It’s not a time to be a travel snob – it simply must be done.
#28 tram available with your Viva Viagem card or Lisbon card | From €3 individually | 45-60 minutes
Praca Luis de Camoes
You’ll see this plaza if you’ve ridden the 28 tram. It’s an excellent place to watch the world go by. You’ll have buskers in one corner, locals wandering about, trams whizzing by and all in the shadow on the 500 year old Chiesa della Madonna di Loretto. One of the beating heart squares of Lisbon.
Catch the Santa Justa lift
Go to Lisbon and take the lift? The Santa Justa lift isn’t just any lift though. The hills in Lisbon are hard work. This lift sought to alleviate some of the pain for those in the 19th century. It made regular trips up the hill that much easier.
Aside from the practical benefits of the lift, the lift was constructed with wrought iron making it something of an art installation. It’s difficult to imagine how grand this must have seemed when it first opened. The neo-gothic arches and beautiful patterns are a sight to behold.
An insider’s tip for this one, this lift is operated by the public transport operator. So if you’ve got a 24 hour Viva Viagem or Lisbon Card option, you can skip the €5.30 fee and simply use it all inclusive. If you take one metro/tram/funicular, it’s already paid itself off.
Long lines will await, so look to take the trip when the queues are lower.
Available with your Viva Viagem card or Lisbon Card |€5.30 individually || 30 minutes
Check out St George’s Castle
Get a view from up top. St George’s Castle offers some of the best views over Lisbon from its Alfama district perch. Here, you can sit upon the castle walls and listen to Lisbon go by beneath you. On a sunny day, the view from here is difficult to beat.
The castle has stood for hundreds of years in various iterations. Serving as a royal palace and a military barracks, most of the castle was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. The majority of what you see today was constructed/restored in the early 1920s, but it remains impressive to view nonetheless.
St George’s Castle Available with your Lisbon Card | €10 individually | 1-2 hours
Praca de comercio
This enormous square is located by the Tagus river and was formerly part of the Royal Ribiera Palace prior to the 1755 earthquake.
Today, the beautiful buildings surrounding the square are a picture of symmetry and activity. It is easily enjoyed with a wander around, and a great place to enjoy a packed lunch or cold beverage. It’s also the popular spot to take off on a free walking tour.
Rossio Square
The ‘main’ square of Lisbon, it is possibly the most popular of all of the squares. Its beautiful patterned Portuguese mosaic style cobblestones play tricks on your eyes.
The Gloria Funicular
Opened in 1885, this national monument will take you up the steep inclines from Praca dos Restaurdores to Bairro Alto. It’s a must see and ride, running from early in the morning until around midnight most days. It’s only a short ride, but the trip up admiring the street graffiti is simply amazing.
On the way back down, take the opportunity to walk. This provides a different perspective on the tram as it winds close to the wall with you in between!
Gloria Funicular available with your Viva Viagem or with your Lisbon Card || 10 minutes
Pasteis de Belem
It’s time to head to leave the hills of Lisbon proper behind and nourish your stomach with sweetness. Pasteis de Belem is such an icon, it doesn’t even get considered in our ‘where to eat’ but rather ‘things to do’ category!
Now you can devour pasteis de nata anywhere in Lisbon and Portugal for that matter. Heck, you can get them at our local café at home in Sydney. Alongside Ronaldo, Portuguese tarts would have to be Portugal’s most famous export. Put simply though, you haven’t had a pasteis until you’ve had one here at one here at Pasteis de Belem.
The original recipe was developed by monks at the nearby Jeronimos Monastery (more on that later) some 180 years ago. Since then, the recipe has been kept secret amongst a handful of people who keep this knowledge very closely guarded. About as closely guarded as when we got our hands on our own tarts. Eyes off guys, these are ours for the eating.
Making the trip back here after our first visit a decade earlier, we were prepared to be let down by our memories. How wrong we were. The tarts are as delicious as ever. There will likely be lines, but the team behind the counter know how to make it flow. Make your purchase first then claim your tarts with your receipt. Head to the park across the way to sit and enjoy your 3-4 tarts (you can’t come all this way for just one can you?!) in blissful serenity.
Jeronimos Monastery
Those tart making monks we spoke of? Their monastery is across the street. You can’t miss it in its exuberant style. A new European style we’d not heard of until our visit in fact – Manueline style. It’s also known as late Portuguese Gothic and boy do they know how to pack some detail into this monument.
The cloister arches throughout the courtyard are intricately decorated. They cast stunning shadows when the sun hits them as well. It’s no wonder it is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. As two people with a love of travel, we loved learning that the monastery was originally built for one of the most remarkable travelers of all time – Vasco Da Gama. Da Gama for those who might know the name, but not his feats was the first European to visit India by sea. This pioneering traveler opened up a much faster link between Europe and Asia.
You will also find Da Gama’s tomb here inside the church located within the monastery. It’s a grand tomb opposite another of Portugal’s favourite sons, the poet Luis de Camoes.
Buy your skip the line Jeronimos Monastery ticket here|| €12.50 || 1-2 hours
Also available as part of the Lisbon Card
Padrao dos Descobrimentos (Explorer’s Monument)
Erected in 1960, the Explorer’s monument depicts 34 statues who look out beyond the Tagus River. Those featured are some of the most important figures from the age of discoveries. Amongst them are Henry the Navigator, Magellan and Vasco da Gama. A short walk from Jeronimos, it’s free to view and forms part of a lovely walk along the river.
Belem Tower
The Tagus River was clearly an excellent choice of location for monuments. Walk some 15 minutes (or zip on a Lime scooter) down the flat path and you’ll end up at Belem Tower. Belem Tower was also made a UNESCO World Heritage Site at the same time as the Jeronimos Monastery.
An iconic site of Lisbon, take the opportunity to explore this 16th century tower inside and out.
Buy your skip the line Belem Tower ticket here || From €8.50 || 30 minutes
Also available as part of the Lisbon Card
Where to from Lisbon
Your Portuguese adventure needn’t end in Lisbon! There are a few options to consider when it comes to thinking of where else to go.
Porto
The most obvious if you have some extra time. Jumping on a train and heading north is one of the wisest decisions you’ll make in your travels. As wonderful as Lisbon is, we’d recommend visiting Porto after Lisbon. It’s a slower pace of life and a little less frenetic.
Sintra
On our first trip to Portugal a decade ago, we’re sorry to say we missed this one. We’d recommend not making the same mistake.
Located only ~1 hour away by CP train (included in either the Lisbon Card or your daily metro ticket), if you thought Lisbon had hills, think again. Sintra is home to some mighty inclines which are home to some excellent castles and palaces. Of most repute, you’ll find the guidebook favourite of Pena Palace here. You can easily enjoy Sintra in a day (my legs would disagree). A night or two here might also make for some deeper exploring. Check out our guide to Sintra to help make the most of your trip.
Cascais
Only a short 40 minute CP train ride (included in either the Lisbon Card or your daily metro ticket) from Lisbon, this coastal town is a respite from the busyness. Wander by the sea, enjoy some seafood and take a dip at the beach. If you were looking for a slower paced trip, there is plenty of accommodation for a more laid back holiday.
Estoril
Estoril is another beautiful beach town with some beautiful sand beaches (the beaches here felt more Australian than European for us). There are a good range of restaurants and its biggest claim to fame is the extravagant Estoril casino.
The train will take ~50 minutes to get you to this beachside town, either for a day trip or maybe a couple of days R&R.
Inspired much?
Lisbon is a fascinating city. Despite it being our second trip, we’d contemplate another for the wonderful vibe and great food alone. We hope this guide is helpful for you in pre-planning or on the ground. We’d love to hear what you think of Lisbon too! Let us know below!
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It looks like you got in some quality time there. We had to inhale, run for trams, glance at things in passing rather than going inside, but it was enough to encourage a second look. Thank goodness for TAP Air. Their flights are super cheap. The selection of restaurants you made it to is impressive!
Lisbon (and Portugal) was excellent. Lisbon is a heck of a lot busier than it was when we first visited a decade ago though. But it still has plenty of charm and as you rightly point out – many wonderful places to eat. I hope Time Out brings their concept to some other cities soon. Such a good way to sample many of the best chefs under one roof!
It’s here in New York too so I don’t think Sydney will be far off. If you get up to Brissie, check out Eat Street.
No doubt! Plenty of good chefs about who I’m sure would want to be amongst it too.
We visited Eat Street in March funnily enough!