When you think of Transylvania, what comes to mind? Before our Romania road trip, I would have said two things: Dracula and castles.
After spending a week road tripping through the Transylvanian countryside, I can now add a lot more to this list:
Gently rolling green hills and snow capped mountains that remind me of Switzerland.
Picture perfect old saxon villages.
Colourful streetscapes.
Hearty food.
And of course, lots of Dracula references and gorgeous castles.
One week was the perfect amount of time for a Romania road trip through the Transylvanian region. A week allowed us to take in most of the major sites without feeling too rushed.
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Where to start your Romania road trip
There are many options to choose where you start a road trip through Romania. We chose to start and end in the capital of Transylvania, Cluj Napoca. Being a discount airline hub, there are often great flight deals via Wizz Air or Ryanair. We considered ending in Bucharest, so we could also visit the Romanian capital. However, there was a hefty one-way rental car fee, and the flights out of Bucharest to London were considerably more expensive too. We decided to save the €250 this would have added. We concentrated our travels on a loop of Transylvania which was the perfect combination of value and sights.
Romanian car hire
Car hire in Romania ended up being simple and straightforward. We always use Skyscanner Car Rentals as our booking site of choice. They have a large number of operators and clear and transparent pricing (no one likes a nasty one-way fee after the fact!).
Romania has local operators as well as a limited number of international companies. We’d read prior to booking that we should consider an international company, however prices with these were significantly higher (up to 3x higher in fact!). We booked with Klass Wagen, which was very highly rated. We found their service to be friendly and efficient. Their office is about a 2 minute drive from the airport, and they offer a convenient pick up and drop off service. We booked full insurance for added peace of mind. When you see how some Romanians drive, you’ll want full insurance too. That’s not a point to scare you, but they do make any Romania road trip a constantly exciting activity.
Our Romania road trip itinerary
When planning our road trips, we like to avoid packing up our bags every morning and moving to a new hotel. Here’s how we split up the week long trip:
2 nights in Cluj Napoca (although our flight landed very late on the first night): Hotel Platinia
1 night in Sibiu: Republique hotel
3 nights in Brasov: Belfort Hotel
1 night in Sighisoara (we had a late flight out of Cluj Napoca the next day): Hotel Bulevard
Here’s a breakdown with our recommendations on top things to do and where to stay for a fantastic road trip through Romania.
Day 1-2: Cluj Napoca
Cluj Napoca (or Cluj for short) is the capital of the Transylvania. It will be the European Capital of Culture for 2021. Cluj is a university town, having the highest student population in all of Romania. For this reason, there is a young, hip vibe. Cafes, bars and trendy restaurants abound, and all at very reasonable prices.
The old town of Cluj is the place to base your trip. It’s a fairly small old town by European standards, with all the of the key sights within about a 30 minute walk. Start at Union Square (Piata Unirii), which is the largest and main square of the city. Within the square lies St Michaels Church, which dominates the skyline with its gothic architecture. From there, you can visit the impressive Opera House, and in another direction, the aptly named “small square”. It’s a square. And it’s small.
Regular readers of our blog will know that we love taking free walking tours in new cities we visit. Cluj Napoca is a perfect place for a free walking tour. You’ll learn all about the history of the city and Transylvania in general. We recommend the free tour by Cluj Guided Tours which departed at 6pm from Union Square (check their Facebook page for updated times).
When it comes to eating, you won’t be starved of options (pun intended!). We had a lovely dinner at Rhedey Café, which is located right on Union Square. It served a wide range of traditional and western dishes. They also don’t skimp on the portions.
Our walking guide also recommended Varzarie. It’s apparently the best place for traditional, home-style Romanian cooking. This restaurant is a nostalgic favourite. Dating back to the communist era, the food is much the same as it was then. It’s located on the main road leading down to the Opera House from Union Square.
Where to stay in Cluj Napoca
There’s a wide range of accommodation options in Cluj to suit all budgets. We stayed at Hotel Platinia, which is a fairly new 5 star hotel. We had a gigantic suite, filled with plush furnishings that were super comfortable. This made it hard to leave the hotel when it was pouring rain outside!
Our flight arrived in very late, which is why we opted for a hotel with a 24 hour front desk. Also, this hotel was only slightly more expensive than other 3 and 4 star hotels in Cluj. It was a little further to the Old Town than other hotels, but it was still an easy 15 minute flat walk.
BOOK NOW: Hotel Platinia, Cluj Napoca || From €90
Day 3: Turda, overnight in Sibiu
Now is the time you really hit the road and start exploring the Transylvanian countryside. Make your first stop the Turda Mines, located about 30 minutes from Cluj Napoca.
Turda Mines
I don’t like to use clichés often, but the Turda Salt Mine really does need to be seen to be believed.
Turda Salt Mine is an underground attraction, which Business Insider boast as one of the most unbelievable travel destinations you didn’t know existed. There are 2 sides to exploring the mine. Firstly, you can learn all about the history of the mine. Secondly, there’s an underground amusement park you can enjoy too.
There are some areas with information detailing the purposes of the salt mine, which dates back a few hundred years. The oldest chamber in the mine is the Teresa mine which dates back to 1690. After mining ceased, an underground lake formed. You can now walk out onto a salt island and enjoy a boat ride. All this occurring of course some 100 metres+ underground!
A level up from the lake is the Rudolph Mine, which is the perfect place to hang out if you’re travelling with kids (or are a big kid yourself). This area offers up table tennis, mini golf and even a Ferris Wheel. Yes, an underground Ferris Wheel! It is possibly one of the most eclectic tourist attractions you’ll find anywhere in the world.
Tickets at entry: Turda Salt Mine || 1-2 hours || 40 lei
Once you’ve finished at the Turda Mines, we’d recommend a quick lunch at the restaurant opposite, Sarea-n Bucate. This place serves up authentic Romanian food. There is no such thing as a ‘light lunch’ here. Our best advice would be to avoid over-ordering!
From the Turda Salt Mine, make your way to Sibiu. It should take ~2.5 hours.
Sibiu
Sibiu is a gorgeous old Saxon village that dates back to the 12th century. It was our favourite stop on our Romania road trip. We only added this to our itinerary at the last minute, and I am so glad we did.
There’s so much to love about Sibiu, but if there is one thing that really stood out, were the homes with eyes. Yes, that’s right, so many homes in the old town have eyes! It sounds like an M Night Shyamalan movie! In reality they are just windows in the attics of the homes, but they do look very unique.
Aim to arrive early enough in the day to spend a few hours exploring. The old town is quite compact but there are many things to see. The town is split into the upper and lower town, and you really do need to explore both. You’ll find large and small squares surrounded by coloured homes. There are medieval walls, old towers and stunning cathedrals to view both inside and out.
For a more in depth look at what you can do in this beautiful town, check out our dedicated one day in Sibiu article.
Where to stay in Sibiu
In Sibiu we stayed at the Republique hotel, and it was perfect. Located an easy 10 minute flat work to the old town. They offer comfortable rooms at a really affordable price. In fact, for the quality of the hotel, we are convinced this might be the best value hotel we’ve stayed in during our year long travels. There was ample free parking right out of the front of the hotel. The staff were all so friendly and helpful, and a free breakfast topped off an enjoyable stay.
BOOK NOW: Republique Hotel, Sibiu || From €48
Day 4: Drive to Brasov, overnight in Brasov
Today I recommend waking up early to spend your morning exploring more of Sibiu. How early you leave Sibiu today depends on one thing: whether you drive the Transfagarasan or not.
The Transfagarasan Road
The Transfagarasan Road has been touted as one of the best roads in the world. Don’t take our word for it, the Top Gear guys made an episode about this road. It runs through the mountains in Transylvania, offering sensational views and sharp hairpin turns. However, due to the elevation of the road and icy conditions, it’s only open a few months of the year. We visited in May and the road was still closed for the winter season, so unfortunately it didn’t make our Romania road trip itinerary. However, from photos we’ve seen online, it looks absolutely incredible. if you’re travelling to Romania in the summer, consider adding this to your itinerary.
If like us, you can’t drive the Transfagarasan, stay in Sibiu until after lunch time. Grab a few covrigi for the road. For the uninitiated, covrigi are like a German pretzel with sesame seeds. Every second shop in Sibiu is a bakery (I may be slightly exaggerating), so there are plenty of places to pick one (or three) up for your travels.
Sibiu to Brasov
The drive from Sibiu to Brasov is a simple yet breathtaking drive through the Transylvanian countryside. The drive is packed with those rolling green hills and snow capped mountains I mentioned earlier. At times it feels like you’re in Switzerland, Austria or Germany such is the scenic landscape.
It should take just over 2 hours direct, but I recommend a quick stop off at the Castel de Lut, Valea Zanelor. By taking a slight detour off the E68, you’ll come across this old style castle where the walls are made out of clay and straw. It reminded us of the gingerbread house from Hansel and Gretel. There’s a small entry fee and you can enjoy a drink by the river.
Tickets at entry: Castel de Lut, Valea Zanelor || 30 minutes || 5 lei
Overnight in Brasov
Driving into Brasov you’ll notice a few things. Firstly, you’re back in a big city. Secondly, you know you’re in Brasov because you’ll see the gigantic Hollywoodesque sign sitting up in the mountain behind the city. You can’t miss it.
Brasov is another delightful Romanian city that is extremely popular on the tourist trail. It’s a great base for exploring the nearby castles and countryside, and for this reason we recommend basing yourself here for a few nights.
Where to stay in Brasov
We stayed at the Belfort Hotel which was a 10 minute walk to the main attractions in town. It came with free parking and offered an extensive free breakfast. Rooms are large and the staff ever helpful.
BOOK NOW: Belfort Hotel, Brasov || From €70
Day 5: A day of castles
Today I recommend another early start, to explore the most beautiful castles in the Romania.
Peles Castle
Peles Castle is located in the Carpathian Mountains, about a one hour drive from Brasov. Whilst lying just outside the border of Transylvania, you’re close enough to make it a must visit.
Built between 1873 and 1914, Peles Castle is a neo-Renaissance castle, and reminded us so much of the popular castles you’ll see in Germany. It was a royal castle, commissioned by King Carol I of Romania.
The beauty of the outside is matched by the stunning interiors. There are rooms upon rooms that are decorated in so many different styles. Ornate furnishings, stained glass windows and impressive halls dominated the scenery.
The entry fee is for the downstairs rooms, and in my view, worth paying. However, there is an additional 35 lei charge for photography, which is strictly enforced. We opted out of the photography charge and just enjoyed the experience.
Tickets at entry: Peles Castle || 1-2 hours || From 30 lei
Bran Castle
Head back towards Brasov, stopping off at Bran Castle.
Bran Castle is often called “Dracula’s Castle”. It’s a romanticised notion which draws plenty of tourists, us included, to this picturesque spot in the countryside. However, does this castle have anything to do with Bram Stoker’s legendary novel? Likely not.
Regardless of the connection with Dracula, the castle is still an interesting historical site. It was built between 1377 and 1382. Being a medieval castle, it’s filled with narrow staircases and fairly plain rooms. If you’re looking for another decorated castle, you’ll be disappointed. Our favourite spot was the inner courtyard, where you’ll get a great view of the covered walkways and the striking orange roof.
Be sure to spend some time wandering around the grounds for great views of the castle too.
Skip the line and book now: Bran Castle || 1 hour || €22
Rasnov Fortress
Heading back towards Brasov, you should spot Rasnov Fortress. It sits impressively upon a hill with its own Hollywood style sign. What is it with Transylvania and the Hollywood signs? This seems to be a popular way of marking a place in Romania!
For 5 lei per person, a tractor will take you up to the top of the hill where the fortress sits. The castle itself has seen better days. And on that basis is not in the same league as Peles or even Bran Castle. But it does have views that neither of those two can match. Extensive views out over the valley below as well as out to the snow-capped Carpathian mountains.
Before you leave Rasnov, take some time to walk the main streets with the colourful homes.
Tickets at entry: Rasnov Castle || 1 hour || 12 lei plus 5 lei per person for a return tractor trip to and from the car park
Brasov
Arrive back in Brasov in time for dinner. After a big day, we recommend a hearty traditional Romanian meal. Restaurant Sergiana was recommended to us by one of our helpful front desk staff. “I go here when I want to eat a meal like my Mum makes”. If that’s not a testament to authentic Romanian cuisine, I don’t know what is!
There’s no shortage of options on the menu, but if you don’t like meat, you may struggle and have to stick to a side salad. The Romanians love their meat and just about every part of the animal, so there is a good variety.
I enjoyed the Transylvanian stew. Jeff had the traditional sarmale, which is minced meat wrapped in cabbage. We’d highly recommend both.
Note: The castles are not open every day. Peles Castle is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays (in peak times, the downstairs rooms may be open on Tuesdays). Bran Castle is not open on Monday mornings. Double check the official websites for opening times to ensure you don’t miss out.
Day 6: Explore Brasov
Brasov is an impressive medieval town and is worth some more time to explore. You can start the day by taking the cable car up the top of the Tampa mountain, to get a view of Brasov down below.
Back down in the city, walk along the Tampa Promenade for views of the fortified medieval complex.
Visit the Black Church, which is the largest medieval church in south Eastern Europe. A great fire swept through Braşov in 1689, which ultimately burnt the church too. The blackening of the church walls it is said, is where the name the Black church comes from. The oldest relic inside the church is the baptismal font from 1472.
Tickets at entry: Black Church || 20 minutes || 10 lei || Photography not permitted
Spend some time in the large Council Square. It was our favourite place to people-watch. Don’t leave without grabbing a crepe nearby too. It seems they are almost more popular here than anywhere else in Europe!
Grab some dinner at one of the many restaurants in the Old Town. We ate at Festival 39, which offers up a mix of decent traditional and western food. The interior of Festival 39 was the most impressive part of our visit. Vintage decorations and low lighting transport you to the 1930s.
Day 7: Sighisoara
Say farewell to Brasov today and make you way to the beautiful little town of Sighisoara. Also, consider a detour to visit a small saxon village, Viscri.
Viscri
Viscri is a super small Saxon village which is now known for three main things:
It’s a UNESCO heritage protected village.
There’s an impressive fortified church.
Prince Charles owns a house in Viscri.
I’ll make a guess and assume it’s the third point that gets most visitors to this town. If I’m honest, it’s what piqued my interest in stopping by here.
So, is the detour worth it? Well, the town is super small – pretty much all the main sights are down two roads, including Prince Charles’ house. The church is very unique and we loved to see & experience a rural village. However, it takes about 2 hours out of your schedule, with the detour and time for sightseeing. I’d only visit here if you leave early from Brasov.
If you do make it here, it’s prohibited to drive up the main street. You’ll spot a large sign directing you to a parking lot on the edge of town. There’s a walking path which will (hopefully) lead you to the main street. When we visited, the path was still in construction phase. We walked about 5 minutes to end up in a local’s backyard. There were chickens everywhere and we had to find our own way out through their shed!
Sighisoara
The drawcard for Sighisoara is the beautiful UNESCO protected old town. Standing impressively up on a hill, it’s claimed to be the oldest inhabited citadel in Europe. It’s certainly one of the most beautiful we’ve ever seen.
Take a few hours to walk within the old medieval walls. Stroll down the small cobbled stone streets with the colourful homes dotted along the sides. Take in the views of the numerous different watchtowers.
The Clock Tower with its tiled roof is the most impressive tower, which will greet you as you enter the city limits. It dates back to the 14th century. You can even climb this tower for views out across the city.
Walk up the Scholar’s Stairway, which was has been around since 1692. There’s 174 steps in total, which will take you up to the church. When we visited, there was a busker up the top of the stairs playing “A stairway to heaven” on his guitar. It was a fitting song and a great way to distract us from the monotonous stairs ahead of us.
At the top of the hill is the Biserica din deal (or Church on the Hill). It dates back to the 14th century and is the 3rd largest Gothic church in Transvylvania. One of the prized possessions of the church is the St Martin’s altar, which dates back to 1520.
Tickets at entry: Biserica din deal || 15 minutes || 8 lei
Where to stay in Sighisoara
We stayed at the Hotel Bulevard. It was conveniently located at the base of the citadel. Whilst they don’t have a private parking bay, we found cheap parking in the nearby public carpark (which the hotel reimbursed us for). Whilst this hotel was the most basic of all our hotel stays in Romania, it was good value for a one night stay.
BOOK NOW: Hotel Bulevard, Sighisoara || From €57
Day 8: Drive via Targu Mures, fly out of Cluj Napoca
You’ve made it to the last day of your one week Romania road trip through Transylvania. Today, you’ll need to make the ~2.5 hour drive from Sighisoara to Cluj Napoca. Depending on the time of your flight, consider a stop in Targu Mures.
Targu Mures is another town of Transvylvania. We’d read in Lonely Planet that it is considered “Transylvania’s most underrated town”. As we had an evening flight that day, we made the slight detour by the city. However, the weather gods weren’t playing nicely with us. We experienced torrential rain whilst in the city and we circled all the parking lots for a good 45 minutes with no luck. From what we saw out the car window, the city had some beautiful buildings.
If you do decide to detour via this city, I’d arrive early in the hopes of securing parking. Another alternative would be to stay overnight in the city (instead of Sighisoara) and get accommodation with parking included.
Enjoy your final few hours driving through the Transylvanian countryside before dropping off your rental car in Cluj Napoca.
Other tips and thoughts
Given the small size of the old town of Cluj, you really only need a half a day to one day maximum in the city. Our flight arrived very late in the evening, which is why we spent two nights here. However, if your flight arrives early, consider just staying one night and spending more time somewhere else (I’d recommend Sibiu).
We didn’t book the car until it was time to leave Cluj Napoca. You don’t need a car whilst you’re in Cluj, and our hotel charged extra for parking. It was cheaper for us to hire a taxi from the airport to our hotel, and then back to Klass Wagen when we commenced our road trip. The airport is also conveniently located on the outskirts of Cluj, so you won’t need to navigate the city traffic!
If you have an early flight on departure from Cluj Napoca, consider staying in Cluj the night before. Make your way direct from Brasov, and spend a half day in Sighisoara.
That’s the end of your one week Romania road trip itinerary through Transylvania. We hope you have an amazing journey.
We’d love to get your thoughts on the itinerary. Is there anything you’d change to our road trip itinerary?
Where to from here? Wizz Air have direct flights from Cluj Napoca to many cities in Europe, including Venice, London and Bari airport in Puglia.
I know very little about Romania but have been fascinated with it since Nadia Commenici. (Not sure if I spelt that correctly.. but the gymnast that scored perfect tens, way back when…) So thanks for this visit and over view.
Peta
I remember her well! I’m not going to try and spell her name either though 🙂
It really is an excellent place to visit, great scenery and easy on the wallet. Highly recommended!