It’s not much of a secret that Italy is home to the best food in the world. The northern Italian city of Bologna is the food capital, and in our opinion the best city in the world for food. There we said it. If you’ve visited, you can debate us in the comments section below. 3 days in Bologna will give you enough time for an entree, a main and dessert. You’ll also need to unbuckle your belt, be less concerned about counting calories and go with the flow of what is put on your plate.
We’ve fallen hard for Bologna having visited 3 times in 3 years with each trip longer than the last. So it’ll be no surprise that we think more people should visit this city. So what keeps us coming back?
The Emilia-Romagna region is famed within Italy for its food. It’s likely if you’ve got some balsamic or parmesan in your pantry, it’s from here. And if it isn’t, I hate to tell you, it’s not the real deal. As the capital of the Emilia-Romagna region, Bologna is a foodie paradise, without the pretension.
Bologna is also a place you go to be a local. This phrase is oft-overused in Italy. You’ll likely steer clear of the umbrella waving tour guides, hordes of buses and selfie takers during your visit. It’s not entirely unknown of course (how can you be with that food reputation?) but Bologna is a place you go not to do, but to be.
And what a place to give yourself over to the delights of Italy. Amongst the stunning red roofs, open squares and underneath the majestic porticoes (we’ll get to these soon) how should you spend your 3 days in Bologna? Let us map out a perfect 3 days in Bologna for you, the city with the nickname La Dotta, La Grassa and La Rossa. Or in English, the educated, the fat and the red. As you may be able to tell, this itinerary is skewed to ‘the fat’ with a dash of education and red thrown in!
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3 days in Bologna
At a glance
Day 1 Getting to grips with Bologna’s main sites || Try Bologna’s most famous dish || Eat the world’s best gelato
Day 2 Sample more of Bologna’s culinary scene || Visit Europe’s oldest university
Day 3 Get your walking shoes on and discover Bologna’s porticoes || Live the Bolognese way of life || Enjoy aperitivo
Day 1 Morning
Asinelli Tower
Welcome to Bologna! There is no better place to get a grip on Bologna than from high above. Bologna’s famed twin towers sit in the heart of the historical centre.
They are difficult to miss, and your first activity should be to climb the 498 steps to the top of the tallest building in Bologna, Asinelli tower. Starting your Bologna visit with this climb in the morning is critical if you’re here in the sweltering summer months (June-August). It only gets harder as the day wears on.
This 900 year old tower, like all famous towers in Italy, is on a classic lean. 1.3 degrees to be exact. You’ll absolutely notice this given it stands at 97 metres tall.
Its little cousin, the Garisenda tower next to it unfortunately leans (3.8 degrees!) so much you cannot enter it, but from above you get a great view down.
You’ll get a wonderful perspective up here of the seemingly endless red roofs across the city. Take your time up top, you’ve earnt it after that climb and take in Bologna from every angle.
BUY ONLINE: Asinelli Tower entry || 1 hour || €5
Piazza San Maggiore and the Fountain of Neptune
When you’ve done your return trip of near one thousand stairs up and back the Asinelli tower, head to Piazza San Maggiore. It can feel like everyone in Bologna walks through here each day. This is one of the best places to people watch and get a sense of the city.
In one corner of the Piazza you’ll find the Fountain of Neptune which is one of the most iconic landmarks in Bologna.
If you’re lucky enough to visit in summer, the piazza will be taken over as an outdoor cinema. They’ll play some Italian classics here. In Italian of course, but it’s a beautiful location in the warm evenings to watch a film.
Basilica San Petronio
If you’ve found yourself in Piazza San Maggiore, that big church which towers above it is the Basilica San Petronio. If you think this basilica looks big from the outside, wait until you enter. Enormously high ceilings and an incredible openness that feels empty even when packed with people. You’ll find some impressive columns in what we call ‘Bologna orange’ supporting the structure internally.
This basilica is also home to 22 side chapels with various artworks. Many of the chapels here are simple, but beautiful, particularly the stained glass artworks. The altar is especially impressive standing some 15 metres high inside the church.
Perhaps one of the most intriguing things to see in this church is Cassini’s meridian line. Giovanni Cassini was teaching astronomy at Bologna University in 1655 when he constructed this piece which must have been almost science fiction for its time.
This Meridian line was one of the largest astronomical instruments of its time which was able to determine the sun’s altitude, the seasons and the solstices.
Entry is free, but to take photos it will set you back €2 which goes towards restoration works.
Day 1 Lunch
Head to the Quadrilatero
You’ve got a handle on Bologna now, so its time to start your food odyssey, and there is no better place for that than the Quadrilatero.
Located off to the side of the Piazza San Maggiore, the tight paths of the Quadrilatero are littered with hole in the wall restaurants, delicatessens and fruit stalls. If the Piazza San Maggiore is the beating heart, the Quadrilatero is the hungry stomach of Bologna.
We could list an easy dozen places to eat in here, but for your first day, we’d recommend starting with a charcuterie and cheese board at Simoni Laboratorio. The Simoni family present a wonderful mix of display and taste in this restaurant. No doubt your charcuterie will come with mortadella, but if it doesn’t be sure to try it. This region is famous for it and this is absolutely the best place to taste it for the first time.
Simoni Laboratorio || Via Pescherie Vecchie, 3/b, 40124 Bologna BO, Italy
Day 1 Afternoon
After an easy lunch where you’ve taken time to enjoy your food and watch the bustling population go by in the Quadrilatero, it’s time for a wander. Head down to the Ghetto ebraico or Jewish Quarter and admire the tight streets and iconic buildings of Bologna. A maze that is easy to get lost in.
Find Bologna’s hidden canals
Speaking of getting lost, it’s time to look for the hidden canals of Bologna. Let’s be clear, Bologna is not Venice when it comes to canals, but these hidden waterways tucked away are worth hunting for. There are a series of canals you can spot but if you’re short on time, we’d suggest you make sure you don’t miss the secret to the window to the canals.
Bologna canal secret window || Via Piella, 5, 40126 Bologna BO, Italy
After an afternoon stroll, head back to your accommodation (and free up some stomach space) for dinner this evening.
Day 1 Evening
Dine on Bologna’s most famous dish
This evening you will dine on tagliatelle al ragu – the real Bolognese dish. I mentioned that Bologna is without pretension. The one exception is when it comes to the phrase ‘spaghetti bolognese’.
Spaghetti Bolognese appears to be a western adaptation based on product that was available rather than an authentically local Italian dish.
I’d argue that the dish is better than spaghetti Bolognese. Kristen will argue her Mum’s spaghetti Bolognese is her all-time favourite, so I won’t push that barrow. Either way, the positive to this is that tagliatelle al ragu is a wonderful dish and has to be experienced whilst in Bologna. It’s a thicker sauce, and heavier on the meat. So enjoy your Mum’s spag bol at home, but whatever you do, don’t let those words pass your lips in Bologna (or else face the wrath of your local host!).
Heading back to the Quadrilatero, we recommend dining on the street at Il Calice Wine Bar and Food. A tagliatelle al ragu here accompanied with some wine whilst sitting amongst the hum of the Quadrilatero is the perfect way to enjoy your first real Bolognese.
Il Calice || Via Clavature, 13, 40124 Bologna BO, Italy
Eat the world’s best gelato
I hope you’ve left room for dessert? Because your next stop will be gelato at Cremeria Cavour. In our humble opinion, this is the best gelato in the world. A subjective opinion, but one formed over a comprehensive sampling throughout Italy – we’ve written at length about the best gelato in Italy. My personal favourite flavour is the Cavour – a lemon and puffed rice gelato, whilst Kristen’s is the pistachio cream. Shoot for 2-3 scoops and ask for a drizzle of chocolate in your cone.
Cremeria Cavour || Piazza Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour, 1/d/e, 40124 Bologna BO, Italy
Are you like us and really, really like gelato? Read on for our view on the best gelato in Bologna.
Day 2 Morning
Stroll Via Independenza
Today you can choose to start your morning at leisure. If you’re up for a touch of shopping, head down to Via Independenza, the main shopping strip. You’ll find the major international brands here dotted with some of the low cost design shops.
Check out the fresh produce at Mercato dell’Erbe
Afterwards head to Mercato dell’Erbe, one of Bologna’s oldest markets and the very best place to buy fruit, vegetables, cheese, meat and wine. Numerous vendors with some of the freshest produce operate here.
Vendors are always happy to have you sample their wares, so don’t be shy to try them out!
Day 2 Lunch
Given you’re already amongst the freshest produce, it makes sense to eat at the Mercato dell’Erbe. On either side of the market, a number of food stalls exist that you can try out.
Our recommendation here is Mozzabella. They serve up local pizza by the slice. Each with only a handful of toppings, but all bursting with flavour.
With slices here starting at €2, it’s easy on the wallet as it is on the tastebuds. It wouldn’t be lunch without washing it down with a wine which you can grab here or next door at Viniera all erbe. The market can get very busy in peak lunch time, so aim your visit to be at the beginning or end of lunch to avoid the crowds.
Mercato dell’Erbe || Via Ugo Bassi, 25, 40121 Bologna BO, Italy
Day 2 Afternoon
Santo Stefano church
After lunch, it’s time to fit in another walk around Bologna as you head to the Santo Stefano church. Whilst there are debates about its origins, Santo Stefano is said to have originally been built in the 5th century. Included in this complex are a number of churches, chapels and a courtyard all harking back to another era. Entry here is free, and at that price deserves at least half an hour of your time.
Santo Stefano church || Piazza di Porta Ravegnana, 40125 Bologna BO, Italy
Head to Bologna University
A short walk from Santo Stefano, it’s time to get acquainted with ‘the educated’ part of Bologna. Head to the Archiginnasio, which is home to the Bologna library and formerly hosted lecture halls. The courtyard on entry is an architectural delight, with stunning archways and frescoes to go with its checkerboard tiles.
The site that can’t be missed here is the Teatro Anatomico or Anatomy Theatre. The theatre is made of carved wood (and the creaking of the seats will tell you just how old this is!) with the seats focusing on a marble table in the middle of the room. I’ll leave it to your imagination to understand what the table was used for. At the time, Bologna University was at the forefront of medical advancements given its progress in better understanding the human body. Entry here is €3 and worth the admission.
Archiginnasio || Piazza Galvani, 1, 40124 Bologna BO, Italy
Day 2 Evening
Eat at Zerocinquantino
Given you’re almost in the Quadrilatero, it makes sense to head here once more for dinner. We’d recommend tonight’s dinner at Zerocinquantino in the Quadrilatero. There are a number of restaurants attached to this this brand (look for 051). There is a good range of pastas here, characturie and lasagna. Whatever you decide to get, be sure to get some tigelle on the side.
These smallish muffins/bread rolls are served warm and you can add mortadella, parmesan, balsamic, basically anything you desire. They’re a perfect starter or snack. You’ll typically only find these in Bologna as well. Go easy on the Aperol Spritz’s or wine, you’re going to need your energy tomorrow.
Zerocinquantino || Via Pescherie Vecchie, 3/e, 40124 Bologna BO, Italy
Day 3 Morning
It’s all been a pretty breezy couple of days filled with great food. But today you’re going to need some extra energy.
Portico di San Luca
No doubt you’ve already admired the impressive porticoes (covered archyways) that make navigating Bologna easy out of the elements and beautiful as well as practical. Today is about tackling the longest stretch of porticoes in the world. Yes, there’s a title for everything in Europe!
The Portico di San Luca stretches over 666 porticoes and covers some 3.5kms. The first half of the walk is an easy stroll. At portico 300, you will commence your ascent some 300 metres up. You’ll really burn off that gluttony from earlier in your trip.
The porticoes were built to provide local Bolognese with a protected path up to the Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca. This walk was an arduous one in the elements, so the solution was to create the porticoes to make it easier for pilgrims to get to the church.
If you visit in summer, you’ll absolutely earn the views as you ascend. Once you make it to the Sanctuary, you can take a look around inside (no photos allowed). It has an amazing high central dome with frescoes, although not as big as you may imagine compared to Basilica San Petronio.
For those who aren’t battling lactic acid in their calves, there is a further climb you can make inside the church. It’s 110 steps straight up, for €5. Whilst the views are expansive, we visited on a hazy day, so if the weather is off, feel free to give this one a miss.
For those whose legs might not carry you this far, there is a road train you can take from Piazza San Maggiore. You’ll get the same views without the hike for €20, which gets you a return trip.
Day 3 Lunch
Tortellini in broth at Sfoglina Rina
After a physical morning, your lunch will be another Bolognese favourite. Head to Sfoglina Rina where you’ll line up for tortellini in broth.
This home style cooking restaurant is open from lunch until early dinner. Serving up some of the freshest pasta imaginable, there is a consistent traditional menu, and a suite of weekly specials. It’s an intimate restaurant, and you can expect to share a table with some new friends, elbow to elbow.
Even ordering here is an experience. Menus you’ll find on chalkboards, no paper or individual menus here. Jot down your selection on some cut up pieces of paper and hand it to your server.
The tortellini here is the stuff of legends. So much so, they do a roaring trade selling it uncooked out the front so you can make it at home, or in your apartment. We’re not as skilled as the cooks here, so we’ll always take a freshly served plate.
Of course the tagliatelle is spot on too, as it should be for any restaurant of repute in Bologna.
There are always lines (no reservations here) but they move through it relatively quickly.
Sfoglina Rina || Via Castiglione, 5/b, 40124 Bologna BO, Italy
Day 3 Afternoon
Rest your legs at Giardina Margherita
With a full belly and likely sore legs, take the opportunity to explore some of the parts of the city that have taken your interest. If you’re looking to unwind outdoors, the Giardini Margherita is just the place. The porticoes and piazzas are magnificent, but by about this point in your trip you are likely to crave some openness and green space. This vast stretch of gardens come with wide boulevards and lush trees, a perfect contrast to Bologna’s red.
Giardina Margherita || Viale Giovanni Gozzadini, 40136 Bologna BO, Italy
One last panoramic vista of Bologna
After some downtime, we’ll wrap your last afternoon up with back at Basilica San Petronio. Skip going to the front entrance and sneak around the back. Yes, the spot with the various scaffolding is where you want to head. Around this side of the Basilica is a service elevator to the Panoramic Terrace. You enjoyed the sprawling views from the Asinelli Tower on your first day, so you can enjoy a stunning view with the tower included in that vista this time around. Entry is just €3.
Day 3 Evening
Aperitivo in the heart of Bologna
Rounding out your 3 days in Bologna, there is no better way to farewell the red city than with aperitivo. There are many wonderful options to choose from in Bologna, but for value, we’d recommend heading to Tamburini in the Quadrilatero. Aside from great characturies, you can also get some tigelle if you haven’t had a chance to treat your tastebuds just yet. Hot tip: Aperol spritz glasses here are generous.
Tamburini || Via Caprarie, 1, 40124 Bologna BO, Italy
A most authentic Bologna dinner
For your final dinner in Bologna, you’ll want something that feels like it comes from your Bolognese Grandmother. Vagh in Ufezzi was very close to our accommodation last time around, and I’m not sure we’d have found it if we didn’t stay nearby.
A small family run establishment with a limited menu that changes daily. With only seats for a 15-20 people, it’s an intimate establishment with a good rotating menu.
Menus are displayed simply on sheets of paper on the wall in black markers.
We opened with the freshest crescentinas (shallow fried puff pastries) with a charcuterie board and cheese which was a perfect starter.
Dining on a day where the mercury hit 35 degrees, we wanted to avoid having too much of a heavy meal. Enter panzanella, recommended by our helpful host. Essentially a summer salad of fresh tomato, cucumber, olive oil, onion and chopped up bread pieces. Perfect for summer, and a generous portion.
Who knows what will be on the menu when you dine, but it’s likely you’ll be very satisfied with whatever it is.
Vagh in Ufezzi || Via de’ Coltelli, 9/C, 40124 Bologna BO, Italy
One last gelato
If you’ve been having cravings for Cremeria Cavour since your first visit, you have a difficult choice to make. In our opinion, the world’s second best gelateria, Cremeria Santo Stefano is located just down the street from Vagh in Ufezzi. And yes, that means we think the best two gelaterias in the world are located in this city, less than a kilometre apart. I challenge you to prove us otherwise. Bologna just doesn’t serve up bad gelato.
You’ll want to have the Salted Pistachio cremina here to make this a memorable visit. And with that, your 3 days in Bologna comes to an end!
Cremeria Santo Stefano || Via Santo Stefano, 70/c, 40125 Bologna BO, Italy
When to visit Bologna
Bologna is an excellent city that can be visited year round. It does come with the warning however that during the summer months, the mercury can soar. Temperatures in June-August of 40 degrees celsius (100+ degrees Fahrenheit) are not uncommon and indeed have been experienced on separate visits in June and July.
The shoulder periods of April-May and September-October are much more mild and pleasant. All of that said, our three visits have been in June, July and September and we’d not have changed any of our itineraries despite the heat. Aperitivo exists for a reason you know.
Where to stay in Bologna
On our first visit we stayed at the Hotel Corona D’Oro located in the Ghetto Ebraico. It’s a well kept property, good breakfast although the rooms are a little tight for what you pay. If you can, try and find an apartment which in our opinion offers better value in Bologna and are typically plentiful given the transient student population.
BOOK NOW: Hotel Corona D’Oro || From €125
Other things to consider on your visit to Bologna
We talk a big game on gelato. Please note that Cremeria Cavour and Santo Stefano are both closed Mondays however. Annoying that both of them are closed on the same day, so be sure to play around with your itinerary on that basis.
Whilst Bologna is a laid back town, bookings for restaurants are incredibly helpful. So whether you take our tips or not, do yourself a favour and book ahead of time.
Bologna is a hub to connect you to many other wonderful Italian cities. Modena, Verona, Parma and Venice are all just a train ride from here. We use Omio when booking our trains in Italy.
Thinking of basing yourself in Bologna and doing a series of day trips? We’ve got you covered with our selection of the very best day trips from Bologna here.
It’s also a great launchpad to other major sights like Tuscany or Turin. If you plan to explore northern Italy, this is a great place to base yourself to do it.
So when are you headed off for your 3 days in Bologna? We’d love to hear below!
Thanks for the great tips and the useful explanations. We followed your 3 days tour including restaurants and grlaterias and had the best time!!! Thank you!
So very pleased to hear that Estelle! Bologna is a wonderful city. We sometimes try to replicate tagliatelle al ragu at home with mixed success 🙂 Did you have a favourite gelato flavour?
I used to live in Bologna, my sons and I are absolutely in love with it. Next time you should also visit Certosa, the cemetery. It’s a unique museum full of masterpieces
Sounds like a very special spot Aurelia! Will definitely add it to our list for our next visit. We’ll be back there at some point, we share the same love as you and your sons for this amazing city.