The Dolomites had long been on our list of must visit destinations in Italy. The iconic images of the jagged mountain peaks surrounded by lush greenery filled our Instagram feed. We were yearning to explore this beautiful region. So during this past European summer, we made sure a Dolomites road trip was turned into a reality.
We love exploring the great outdoors, and multiple visits to the Alps has fuelled this further. Yet, our experience in the Alps had been concentrated in Switzerland. We’ve seen the mighty Matterhorn in Zermatt, hiked amongst the cows in Grindelwald and discovered the hidden gem of Adelboden. With Italy being our favourite country in the world, we knew it was time to finally make our long awaited trip to the Italian Dolomites.
Now, whilst we love the outdoors, I wouldn’t exactly call us the most experienced hikers. In fact, half day hikes are more our jam. We definitely push ourselves when we want to. I experienced jelly legs after hiking up to Pulpit Rock in Norway and hiked along the coast in the Cinque Terre. However, as we were planning our Dolomites road trip, I also found myself with a bung knee. This reluctant hiker was even more hesitant around my ability to do the hikes we wanted!
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Dolomites for non-hikers?
I started to do more research on the Dolomites and wondered whether it was worth visiting if we couldn’t partake in hiking. A google search for “Dolomites for non-hikers” would serve up results for the best hikes in the dolomites. Not exactly helpful!
When we found ourselves in the stunning town of Trento for a travel conference, we knew this was our opportunity to finally visit the Dolomites. Trento is located in the foothills of the Dolomites in the Trentino region. We decided to hire a car and just “wing it”, hoping we’d be able to enjoy the beauty of the Dolomites without those strenuous hikes.
I am so glad we did it. Whilst I am sure you would experience more of the beauty of the region on some of the famous hiking routes, it is still possible to experience the Dolomites without those hikes.
So, if you’re looking for a travel guide detailing the best hikes in the Dolomites, this isn’t for you. If you’re looking to undertake a Dolomites road trip at an easy pace, without the need for serious hiking gear, you’re in the right place!
Our Dolomites road trip itinerary will show you the highlights of this region in 6 amazing days.
Day 1: Start your Dolomites road trip
Before we get too far ahead of ourselves, we should ask the question: what are the Dolomites?
The Dolomites are a mountain range in the northern Italian Alps. Deemed a UNESCO World Heritage site, they are one of the most beautiful mountain ranges in the world.
The Dolomites stretch across three provinces of Italy; Belluno, South Tyrol and Trentino. They are so high north that they border onto Austria. In fact, before World War 2, a large part of this region was part of Austria. This fact won’t go unnoticed on your trip. A significant part of the population speak German. We were surprised to find that we were more likely to find a German restaurant here than a pizza restaurant. Also, most places will have a German name and an Italian name. It can be confusing at first, but it’s important to get your head around this fact. This BBC article will help you to understand the history and political elements of the region.
Due to its location, it’s possible you’ll be arriving from many different directions. Innsbruck is to the north, whilst south of the Dolomites you’ll find Verona and Venice.
Start your journey in Verona
We were adding the Dolomites road trip onto our travels through northern Italy, so it made the most sense for us to start our journey in Verona. It was also the most economical option for car hire. It’s possible to catch a super scenic train from Verona up to Bolzano, but the car hire in Bolzano was about double the cost. During your planning stages, check all options via rentalcars.com.
For your first few nights, we recommend staying in the Val Gardena area. There are 3 main towns that you can choose from here: Ortisei, Santa Cristina Valgardena or Selva di Val Gardena.
We chose to stay in Ortisei and were really happy with this decision for our Dolomites road trip. Firstly, it appeared to be the largest town so had a good array of restaurants. Importantly, this town also has the cable cars up to some of the most scenic spots in the Dolomites area.
The drive from Verona to Ortisei will take about 2.5 hours. The majority of this can be done on the Autostrade. However, if time permits, I recommend making a pitstop in the lovely town of Trento.
Discover the hidden gem of Trento
Trento is a hidden gem of a town that is unlikely to stay hidden for much longer. Aside from it being a beautiful town in its own right, we were there for a travel bloggers conference, Traverse19. So there are a good 400 bloggers and their followers that now know about it!
Having stayed in Trento, we can recommend this as a great place to spend a night if you’re taking your trip very slowly. At the very least spend some time here taking in all of Trento’s beautiful streets and history.
Head to your home base for the next 2 days – Ortisei
After you’ve finished up in Trento, start the drive further north to Ortisei. This mountain town has a small yet quaint pedestrianised centre (it’s pretty much one road!). Yet it’s filled with an array of restaurants and accommodation options. We stayed at the Garni Panoramik, a homely chalet set just behind the town with a 5 minute walk to the city centre. Settle into your accommodation and grab some dinner.
Day 2: Road trip through some of the most stunning mountain passes
Today’s itinerary is all about windy roads and breathtaking views out your car window. In fact, there’s not much walking on day 2 of your Dolomites road trip at all.
Gardena Pass
From Ortisei, travel through the Val Gardena towards the Gardena Pass.
The Gardena Pass is an incredible windy road with stunning views of the Dolomites mountain range. It was one of the most scenic roads we travelled on through the Dolomites. There were loads of “oohs” and “aahs” as we made our way through the valley.
These mountain passes are a favourite amongst cyclists who somehow take pleasure in making their way up the steepest of hills. At times they look like they’re almost going backwards, and I wonder how on earth they manage to get up and down the hills. Good on them I say! It’s certainly not my cup of tea, and they definitely make me feel just a tad lazy.
Given the twists and turns and the amount of cyclists on the road, driving the Gardena Pass can be a little challenging at times. Jeff is our designated driver, and has had plenty of practice driving on the right hand side of the road. But the concentration required can take you away from the natural beauty in your surrounds. My advice is to turn into the parking bays often and stop and take in all the views.
Getting to the Gardena Pass
To get to the Gardena Pass, travel along the SS242 from Ortisei (the main road), then take the SS243 to stay on the Gardena Pass.
A popular stop is near Hotel Cir. There is a large free car park here and there’s the opportunity for a short walk too. If you’re looking to stretch your legs, this is a good spot. From this point, continue along for as long as you want. You’ll eventually need to turn back until you reach the SS42 again. This time, turn left to join the Sella Pass.
Sella Pass
The Sella Pass is similar to the Gardena Pass, another amazing windy ride with sharp hairpin turns. It is one of the most famous passes in the Dolomites, connecting Val di Fassa to Val Gardena. Continue to be awed by the majestic Dolomites, as you pass the Sella Towers.
Be sure to watch those oncoming cars and cyclists around the bends. There are sometimes safety mirrors, and sometimes not.
If you’re up for more driving, consider turning off to complete the Pordoi Pass. We didn’t complete this section of the Dolomites, but from what I’ve read this appears to be another stunning drive.
On the completion of the Sella Pass, you’ll pass a town called Canazei. This is a good stop for lunch or additional supplies. We ate at a place called La Cantinetta. It was nothing fancy but decent fare, specialising in pizza.
Lago di Carezza
Continuing along the Great Dolomites Road, turn off onto the SS241 towards Carezza. This is where you’ll spot your first alpine lake. You’ll even get a glimpse of the water from your car on arrival.
Lago di Carezza is one of the stunning alpine lakes you’ve likely seen all over Instagram. Its popularity is for good reason, it’s absolutely breathtaking. An emerald green lake sitting in front of pine trees and the Rosengarten mountain range. Simply beautiful.
Due to its popularity, it’s quite a developed tourist site. There is a large paid parking lot across from the lake. It is free for the first 15 minutes, and then €1 for each hour thereafter. When we visited in June there was plenty of parking available.
The perfect pit stop
There’s a visitor centre at the parking lot with a few shops and good toilet facilities. An underground tunnel passes under the road and takes you straight to the lake.
When you visit the lake you’ll see that it is fenced off. Please respect the rules and don’t jump over it just for a picture. You’re practically on the water anyway, so you’ll be able to take in the views and get some good pics.
If you’re looking to stretch the legs, take some time here to walk along the path around the lake.
From Lago di Carezza it is around a one hour drive back to home base at Ortisei. The easiest path is continuing along the SS241 towards Bolzano and then turning right on the SS12.
By this stage of the day, we were quite worn out with all the driving and sightseeing. We were very much looking forward to a rest by the pool. However, if you want to do more sightseeing, consider stopping by the town of Bolzano if you haven’t yet visited.
Day 3: Visit Europe’s largest alpine meadow, Alpe di Suisi
Staying in Ortisei, what you may not realise is that Europe’s largest alpine meadow is literally sitting high above the mountains surrounding the town. Alpe di Suisi (or Seiser Alm) is a stunning meadow which is a must see in the Dolomites.
Alpe di Suisi is closed to traffic (except local cars) during the day. To reach it by car, you need to get up there early and stay until late. So, my suggestion is to have a break from the driving today and take the cable car.
The bright red cable cars you’ll spot in Ortisei take you up to Alpe di Suisi. Tickets cost €19.90 for a return trip. It’s a high speed cable car, so the journey is quite quick.
Once on the cable car, there should be no confusion on where to alight. There is only one mountain station up the top. In fact, you can just make out the building from the town below in Ortisei.
Arriving at Alpe di Siusi
As soon as you arrive and walk outside, you’ll realise what “Europe’s largest alpine meadow” means. Rocky mountains with a scattering of snow jut out on the horizon, in a line for about 180 degrees. Leading up to the mountains is a lush field of green pastures, dotted with pine trees and brown mountain huts. It’s jaw droppingly beautiful. I’ve seen my fair share of the Alps and this is definitely my favourite spot.
Now, it’s totally possible to just take the cable car up to the top and take in the amazing views without going for a hike. There is a restaurant and a small shop selling souvenirs, so you could base yourself here for an hour or two if that’s all you’re looking to do.
Get your walking shoes on
If you’re okay with a short walk, there are a number of options. You’ll need to work out how much walking you’re up for, and how far you want to go. Just know you need to walk back to your starting place at the cable car station.
A really simple walk is the path to Malga Contrin. This is a mountain hut with a restaurant. There’s a front deck with table and chairs, plus umbrellas to keep you in the shade. They serve up reasonable food, a mix between German and Italian. We ate lunch here and chose to have sausages and fries, which was around €10. The service was really friendly. We loved sitting out on the deck and taking in the views. They also had a few loungers out in the sun if you prefer to just chill out with a beer in hand.
To get here take a right as you exit the cable car building. There should be a sign pointing towards Malga Contrin, on the path numbered 6A. It looks like it is uphill, but it’s only a short climb and then it is fairly flat. You’ll be walking along the highest part of the meadow, and it will allow you to take in different perspectives of the mountains before you. It should take about 15 minutes each way.
An alternative route
Another option is a longer walk through the meadow, but it does involve more ascending and descending. We did this option and it was far from strenuous. There are lots of places to stop along the way.
If you’re up for even more exploring, take a left as you exit the cable car building. You start a descent downhill, and after a minute or two turn to the right. You’ll be walking along a road which may have a small amount of local traffic (including a few horse and cart). Pass by the fancy Adler lodge, keep walking for around 15 minutes before you see the mountain hut up the hill on your right. There will be a path pointing up to the 6A route (if you hit the iCaro hotel you’ve gone too far). There’s an incline up to Malga Contrin from here, but you’ll be rewarded with a place to rest once you get to the top.
Be sure to get back to the cable car by 5pm
It’s likely this trip won’t take all day, and the cable car closes at 5pm anyway. With your free time in the afternoon, you have so many options.
You could enjoy an afternoon siesta, you are in Italy after all.
If you’re up for another adventure, consider heading up to Seceda. The other cable car in town will take you up to this spot in the mountains. We didn’t have time to do this any justice, so decided to skip it this time. I’ve read it involves a bit of walking too.
You could explore more of the town of Ortisei and enjoy an aperitivo at one of the many wine bars or cafes. Whilst you’re in town, don’t miss the main church in town. We’ve visited our fair share of churches, but in this small town, this church over represents. High, painted ceilings with amazing frescoes, this church was one of importance in the region. Given there aren’t many people about, you may get to explore this one all to yourself.
Finally, there’s a public swimming pool in Ortisei that opens in the afternoon. Give yourself a break and enjoy a swim.
Day 4: Drive to Cortina via the stunning Lago di Braies
For the next 2 nights of your Dolomites road trip, consider a stay in the little town of Cortina d’Ampezzo. This is quite an upmarket ski town. It’s also the home of the winter Olympics in 2026. In the warmer months is a great base for more sightseeing in the Dolomites.
Departing after breakfast, make your way to the Val di Funes area. This valley has some beautiful churches and towns nestled amongst the mountains. There are some iconic photo opportunities here that don’t involve much walking at all.
The most insta-famous of all photos, and the easiest to get, is of Chiesetta di San Giovanni in Ranui. A tiny church in a green meadow contrasted with the tall mountains above it is a stunning sight. However, the popularity of this church is starting to impact its appeal. When we visited there was a large wooden fence around the property with a small walkway that will lead you to the church. The church is actually shut, and the best photo opportunity is back by the fence.
We’ve subsequently read online that they’ve installed turnstiles and are charging €4 each to visit too. Like many places around the world that are suffering from over-tourism, I can understand the need or desire to protect the property, particularly given it is private land.
From the church it is about 1.5 hours to your next stop, the picture perfect Lago di Braies.
The unmistakable Lago di Braies
If you thought Lago di Carezza was stunning, wait until you see Lago di Braies! This lake with its emerald green colour sitting perfectly amongst the snow capped mountains and pine trees is one of the most stunning lakes we’ve ever seen.
One of the best things about Lago di Braies is that it is possible to get out onto the water in wooden row boats. Prices for the boats were €25 for one hour and €15 for 30 minutes. If you’re not interested in going for a row, they make amazing photo props!
There’s a path that takes you around the lake and a lot of it is fairly flat. Go as far as you can and make sure you stop by the church on the lakeside.
Lago di Braies is a great spot to spend lunch as well. There is a restaurant on site that serves pasta and other mains for around €15-20. There is also a small snack stand with seating serving items like bratwurst with pommes frittes for €8.
There are paid and free parking lots near Lago di Braies. The free parking is a little further away from the lake, and is the first to fill up. The paid parking had a lot of spots when we visited. It cost €6 for 3 hours, and the first 15 minutes was free too (although I urge you spend more than 15 minutes here!).
Head to Cortina d’Ampezzo
From Lago di Braies, make your way to Cortina d’Ampezzo. It’s about a one hour scenic drive. Along the way you’ll pass quite a lot of beautiful spots where you’ll likely want to get out of the car for some photos. One of those is Lago di Landro Durrensee. This lake has a gorgeous chalky aqua colour, and it’s right on the side of the road. Turn into the carpark on your left hand side.
Arrive at your accommodation in Cortina d’Ampezzo and spend some time walking around the town. We stayed at Meuble Villa Neve. It was well located within walking distance of the main centre. Parking is also available on the main road. It’s quite an upmarket village with boutique shops and one long pedestrianised road. Seek out a spot for some well deserved drinks and dinner. We enjoyed a pizza and aperol spritz at Pizzeria il Ponte.
Day 5: Head to Tre Cime di Lavaredo
The 3 peaks of Tre Cime di Lavaredo are said to be some of the most recognisable mountains in the Alps. Although perhaps not as recognisable as the Matterhorn, the peaks that shoot up in the air are visually stunning. For today’s itinerary, take a drive out to this park, about 40 minutes from Cortina d’Ampezzo.
The path around Tre Cime di Lavaredo is one of the most popular hiking routes in the Dolomites. It’s a 10km path and from what we’ve read, is a challenging yet do-able hike for those with a medium level of fitness. We decided that this was one of the hikes that we were going to try. Yet, for us it wasn’t to be. The hiking path is at quite an altitude. Higher than any other place we’ve recommended so far in this Dolomites road trip itinerary.
We visited in mid-June and the park had only just opened for the season. However, there was still so much snow on the path. Without the proper hiking equipment (eg. our waterproof shoes at the very least) we had to turn back around after about 30 minutes.
However, our experience has aided us in recommending this for non-hikers.
Bring your Euros
The path lies within a national park, requiring an entry fee (quite hefty at €30 per car). The drive ascends to quite an altitude, where you’ll come across the parking lot. From the car park there’s a fairly flat and easy walk for the first 30 minutes to Rifiguo Lavaredo. This is a great spot to grab some lunch.
Along this flat path you’ll be in the midst of the peaks which rise up on your left hand side. Given you’re so close to the peaks, you won’t see them at their best angle. In my opinion it is still a rewarding experience. But, it’s not as beautiful as other places we’ve recommended in this itinerary. As you’re up so much higher in the Alps there are less green spaces to contrast against the rocky peaks.
Check out another lake – Lago di Misurina
Head back towards Cortina d’Ampezzo and stop off at Lago di Misurina. There’s quite a lot of development along the lake, and it’s a great spot to grab some supplies and go for a short afternoon walk.
Once you’re back at your accommodation, freshen up and get ready for a real evening treat.
It’s your last night on the Dolomites road trip, so we recommend you head out for a lovely dinner. Book ahead for a table at Agriturismo El Brite de Larieto. Located a 10 minute drive outside of town, the deliciousness of the farm to table menu is matched by its stunning location. We’ve to thank the guys from Anywhere We Roam for recommending this restaurant to us.
Day 6: Dolomites road trip comes to an end
Sadly, it’s time for your amazing stay in the Dolomites to come to an end. By now you’ve seen the absolute highlights of the beautiful Dolomites.
If you’re heading back to Verona, the most direct drive will take about 3 hours to complete.
However, if you’ve got the time, consider adding some more places onto your road trip itinerary.
Lake Garda is a short drive from Verona and a wonderful place for a road trip. Once we had completed our Dolomites road trip, we headed to Sirmione for a few relaxing days by the water.
Wherever you decide to go from here, we hope you had an amazing time on your Dolomites road trip.
A few notes on our Dolomites road trip itinerary
In our itinerary we recommend staying in two different locations: Ortisei and Cortina d’Ampezzo. However, if you are short of time or aren’t interested in visiting Tre Cime di Lavaredo, consider staying in Ortisei only.
Driving in the Dolomites can be a challenge at times, mostly due to the amount of cyclists that ride up and down the various mountain passes. Read up on our driving in Italy tips before you head off.
Where to stay on your Dolomites road trip
Ortisei’s Garni Panoramik was a great option. Our room was basic yet comfortable. It came with free parking and was located a short walk into town and even closer to the Alpe di Suisi cable car. Breakfast was included and served in their cosy breakfast room.
Cortina d’Ampezzo’s Meuble Villa Neve was very similar to our accommodation in Ortesei. Nothing overly fancy, but clean and comfortable with a free breakfast. It was literally across the road from the pedestrianised shopping strip and a large grocery store.
And if you do happen to amend our itinerary (we take no offence!) and stay in Trento along the way, the Grand Hotel Trento is exactly that. Filled with old world charm expect gold fixtures in your room, a striped decor and a very European red carpet. It’s an old world delight that is luxury from another era.
When to visit for your Dolomites road trip
The best time to visit the Dolomites for a road trip would be late spring, summer, or early autumn. This way you’ll be blessed with long days and hopefully lots of sunshine and warm weather.
We visited in mid-June and many services were just re-opening for the warmer season. As I mentioned earlier, the higher altitude attractions were still covered in snow. This really does change year to year though. If your plans are flexible, and you want to visit at the start of the season, keep an eye out on the weather.
Like most of Europe, July and August are the peak season for tourism. So if you road tripped the Dolomites during this time expect lots of tourists and higher prices. You’ll need to plan ahead at this time of the year and secure your accommodation and car rental well in advance.
If (when!) I visited the Dolomites again I would try and visit during late June or early September.
If you want to visit outside of these times, you must be prepared. It snows from around December until April. Many services shut down completely, such as the cable cars and restaurants, unless they are servicing the ski fields.
I hope this Dolomites itinerary will help you plan an amazing trip. Have you been? Do you have any other thoughts to add for our road trip itinerary for non-hikers? We’d love to hear from you in the comments below.
Wow, Great article. Road trips are always amazing and i like the fact how you showed the amazing time you had. Lovely pics. Cheers!!