Two to three hours north or south of Sydney seems to be the limit for most Sydneysiders or visitors to these parts. A little further afield though, you’ll find some lesser known towns, pristine beaches and copious amounts of Australian wildlife. Such is the case with the drive from Sydney to Eden.
Despite having both been born in Sydney, the furthest south we’d managed on the NSW coast was Ulladulla. So with some time on our side, the sun shining and knowing that the whales were in full migration, we hopped in our car and headed south.
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How long do you need for a Sydney to Eden road trip?
Google Maps will tell you that you’ll need a little over 6 hours to cover the 474 kilometres. That’s non-stop and despite the views out of your window, a needless rush.
We spent a week on this road trip. It’s worth noting our trip was interspersed with leisurely beach strolls and evenings on our balcony. This isn’t a ‘tick and flick’ itinerary.
We’ve mapped out our key stops along the way below as well as where we stayed. Such is the nature of this Sydney to Eden road trip, you can spend as little or as long as you like in each destination. If you’re travelling around Australia, perhaps you’ll spend a month traversing this part of the coast. If you’ve snared a week of annual leave, this Sydney to Eden road trip is completely doable.
The choice really is yours.
Heading south out of Sydney
For this Sydney to Eden road trip, our goal was to keep the ocean in sight as much as possible. For that reason, we suggest heading south and via the Royal National Park. The National Park deserves more time. Being located within the realms of Sydney, we headed only to Bald Hill. This lookout is famous for the hang gliders who use this as their airstrip. If you’re lucky, you may watch a few take off from what is a majestic view point.
You can see south to Wollongong on a clear day, overlooking Stanwell Park beach and the Seacliff Bridge. Although you’ve just started your road trip, the Bald Hill Flying Café is a good option if you need some food or coffee.
The Seacliff Bridge
Another famous spot on the Sydney to Eden route is the Seacliff Bridge. It’s smooth road hugs the coastline. If it looks like it’s something straight out of a commercial for a new car, you’d be right. This bridge has been used countless times in car advertisements. It’s easy to see why as you zoom around its bends.
On the southern side of the bridge, there are a handful of parking spots available. A little further on and there is a car park that can fit around a dozen cars. Park the car and walk across the bridge you’ve just driven over at a slower pace.
Lunch and drinks with a view
If these views are your thing, why not drop into the Scarborough Hotel? A popular weekend spot for road trippers, they serve up a great pub lunch. Importantly, their beers are refreshingly cold. The views are magnificent, and it’s easy to see why the pub is a popular destination.
One of our favourite beaches – Austinmer
Personally, Austinmer is our favourite beach along this stretch. A little quieter with only a handful of shops, the beach is protected by a cove of pine trees.
For those not looking for a dip in the waves, try the sea pool. Mind the waves on a windy day, they still bash the pool.
For those hunting fish and chips, Shell’s Diner across the road from the beach is a worthy pick. Serving up old fashioned fish and chips and other deep fried delectables, take some snacks over to the beach and enjoy after a swim.
Overnight at Austinmer
Despite being only 1.5 hours south of Sydney, we opted to spend our first night at the Headlands Hotel in Austinmer. Given we love the area (and we left a bit later in the afternoon too) we thought this made for a great first pit stop.
The Headlands Hotel has recently been refurbished and is an excellent modern option. Our one bedroom apartment came with a kitchen and laundry. The TV with connected Netflix made for an enjoyable evening. We could have had a party on balcony. Given it is so close to Sydney, we look forward to returning in the future again.
The hotel also has an adjoining pub and bistro, so there’s no need to head out if you don’t want to.
A worthy dinner option
If you do want to head out though, let us recommend South Sailor. This restaurant looks the size of a cottage from the outside. It also has an adjoining outdoor area and services many more patrons that you might expect. It is located on the main drag just before Thirroul as you head further south.
Inside you’ll find a buzzy, warm environment. Friendly staff serve against a backdrop of funky green and white palm lined wallpaper and bright neon lights. South Sailor is best described as coastal casual. There’s fish and chips for sure, but not of the greasy newspaper variety. The menu is wide and based around seafood. Poke bowls, sushi and fish tacos are all on the menu.
The fish and chips is perfect grilled, and the Baja Fish tacos come with 3 tasty tacos for $19.
Enjoy a wine, beer or cocktail with your lunch or dinner. Bookings online are absolutely essential. It’s a popular spot even during midweek.
Time to blow
As you continue your journey south, we recommend skipping Wollongong. It’s a lovely city to be sure (and home to my favourite football team, the Dragons). We have too many other smaller coastal towns to see on this drive however.
Continue on until you hit Kiama. The small town is easy to miss. Literally – the turn off is upon you before you know it. Turn off and stop in this town where the Main Street is lined with shops.
Having visited this spot numerous times, we would describe our relationship with the Kiama Blowhole as love/hate. In our lifetime, the Blowhole has typically disappointed. On our most recent visit, we did get around 10 metres of blow. I wish you better success in witnessing this natural phenomena than we have ever had. FYI – choppy conditions make for larger performances.
There is a sea pool and cabins here too if you’d like to stay longer.
Donuts anyone?
If you have a sweet tooth and room in your stomach, a fresh batch of Berry donuts may be just what you need. Up until a couple of years ago, you would have driven straight past the famous Berry Donut van. With the highway now bypassing Berry, you’ll need to make a conscious effort to turn off and stop here.
It’s always been a favourite stop of ours for a hot cinnamon donut. The donuts are delicious which clearly means the calories don’t count.
Onwards to Huskisson
Our next stop on our itinerary is Kristen’s favourite Australian destination. She grew up visiting Huskisson each summer as a child, and so it still has that nostalgic charm. The town has changed a lot since then where it was still considered relatively unknown.
You’ll still find the old Huskisson cinema which is altogether from another era. The Husky Pub is the place to be most days. Head here for a schnitzel and beer if you’re about for lunch.
Looking for a lighter option? The Huskisson Bakery’s pies are very well known. With over a dozen options, there is something to taste for everybody. Our picks would be the mince pie and the Pepper Steak.
If it’s brunch you’re after, look no further than the 5 Little Pigs café. A great assortment of breakfast and brunch options. Your only difficulty will be securing a table at this café. Tables do turn quickly however.
The secret here is well and truly out now though. It’s one of the most popular spots in the Jervis Bay area. Take a stroll along the beach. A pathway winds itself around the coastline making it an easy flat stroll.
Looking for the whitest sand beach?
Whilst you’re here, enjoy the white sand and crystal blue water. The famous Hyams Beach is just over 10 minutes drive away, reputedly having the whitest sand in the world. It feels like many beaches in Australia lay claim to this, but whatever the case, the sand is very white! Walking on it comes with its own special squeakiness too.
Overnight at Huskisson
For nostalgic reasons, Huskisson was our second overnight stop on this trip. Over the years we have stayed in a variety of accommodation options here. From caravans to cabins to B&Bs. We can recommend Huskisson Beach Bed and Breakfast and Holiday Haven Huskisson. The challenge here is not finding good accommodation, but availability. Try and book as far ahead of time as possible.
Huskisson is an easy place to hang out. Kristen’s summer holidays were 2-3 weeks here, so that probably gives you a sense of the place. It is a lot busier than those days however, and the holiday season here can be crowded and expensive. Aim to be here outside of holidays if you can manage it. It’ll be easier on the wallet, and give you a truer sense on this laid back coastal town.
A few options to consider that we missed
As we continued south, we drove through some towns you may wish to consider as a stop on your Sydney to Eden drive. Mollymook is another coastal gem, perhaps best known for being home to Rick Stein’s Bannister’s hotel. Bannister’s remains on our bucket list still, but if you’ve got cash to splash, it could be a worthwhile pit stop.
Ulladulla and Batemans Bay are popular summer getaway spots. You’ll find a good range of accommodation options here. Our experience suggests that at this point accommodation gets a little cheaper. Our hunch is these destinations are beyond the border that most Sydneysiders are willing to consider for a weekend.
Whilst we’re partial to Huskisson, we take no offence if you consider these alternatives to Jervis Bay on your trip.
Where’s the zoo?
It might come as a shock as you drive this scenic coastal road that there is a zoo hidden amongst this drive. The Mogo Zoo is a small zoo, but has a good array of animals under their care. It’s been some years since my last visit to Mogo, but the red pandas were my favourite from that visit. If you’ve time, it’s a great little zoo.
Be sure to stop at the Bodalla Dairy
You’ll drive straight past it, so there really aren’t any excuses. The country you’re now driving in is prime dairy land. You’ve likely already lost count of the number of cows you’ve seen out the window.
The Bodalla Dairy has all nature of dairy products available for sale. Pop in and taste some cheese, have a toastie or enjoy an old fashioned milk shake. There’s not much worth stopping for before or after, so it’s a practical as well as delicious pit stop.
Check in ahead of time, you might even get the opportunity to milk a cow during your visit.
Back towards the coast
Your Sydney to Eden road trip starts to edge back towards the coast after our inland diversion. From here on, the beaches get a lot quieter, the ocean a lot more blue and the towns far fewer.
Find the hidden gem that is Kianga Point
Along the coastline as you enter North Narooma, plug in Kianga Point into Google Maps. It’s a very easy to miss vantage point. With a large open space and a loop road, we shared this beautiful spot with just another car.
The hues of blue, aqua and green here reminded us very much of Lord Howe Island. And there’s no one else about to share them with! If a place like this was closer to Sydney, you can bet it would have been over run by now.
It’s the perfect place to nibble on some of that Bodalla Dairy cheese. It was views like these that had us scratching our heads as to why we’d never considered driving from Sydney to Eden earlier.
Time for a dip?
Admiring the views is one thing, but you’re probably getting the itch to be a part of it. A 5 minute drive south from Kianga Point and you’ll find Bar Beach in North Narooma. Here, there is a netted off inlet swimming area with some of that pristine water I mentioned earlier. There’s a boardwalk and breakwater you can wander along here too. Keep an eye out for seals who often find themselves in this area.
Australia Rock
Another short hop to the next point of interest – Australia Rock. Now let’s put the debates aside because there are plenty. This eroded rock does in some way resemble mainland Australia (sorry Tassie). Like a hole cut out of the rock, it’s a beautiful spot and a unique natural formation. It may not look exactly like Australia, but I think you’ll get a sense of what you’re looking at!
What about Bermagui?
Bermagui is another stunning coastal town. It too has a good array of accommodation options.
We dropped by the iconic Camel Rock which as its name suggests is shaped like a camel along the beach. Australia Rock cops some flack for its supposed lack of likeness. You won’t battle to identify the camel here.
The Blue Pool of Bermagui wasn’t so blue on our visit, more a shade of green. This coastal pool was empty when we arrived. If you fancy another swim, head on down the stairs and enjoy this place, potentially to yourself.
Overnight in Tathra
We completed our drive with our final accommodation destination being Tathra. This is a small town, that is almost split in two. I imagine everyone knows everyone here.
We stayed at the Tathra Beach House Apartments. The accommodation also has motel accommodation. Given we were travelling out of season, we took the opportunity to book an apartment with a great ocean vantage point. Equipped with a telescope, our first morning was a delight as we watched whales splashing about in front of us.
A white splash only from the balcony, but the telescope let us enjoy the spectacle a little closer. Our apartment was equipped with a kitchen, two bedrooms and a sizeable balcony. It was so good we recommended it to Kristen’s parents who have just completed their own stay in Tathra.
Sunset in Tathra is a wonderful time of day. Watching the sun go down by the pink Tathra wharf is a great way to spend part of your afternoon. As you wander or drive back up, expect to navigate amongst kangaroos who also enjoy this time of day.
Across from our accommodation, we were thrilled with Tathra Beach tapas. For what is a limited menu, there really aren’t any bad options to choose from. In particular, the Thai fish cakes were on the money. If you’re not looking for a sit down dinner, they also do some take-away outside the restaurant.
What else is about on the Sapphire Coast?
We used Tathra as our base. From here, you are within easy distance of a number of beautiful towns. Each of them should demand your attention during your stay.
Pambula – home to a magnificent stretch of beach
Pambula is best known for its long, curved beach. There’s plenty of sand if you plan on sun baking and the waves break over quite a distance, so a dip is easy to enjoy.
Keep an eye out amongst the bushes, you can expect to find wildlife here. We stumbled across a friendly echidna who calls Pambula beach home. Kangaroos are said to be found often on the beach too, but we didn’t have such luck.
Merimbula – your opportunity to see whales up close
Merimbula is the largest of the Sapphire Coast towns, and even has its own airport. You’ll find a number of great swimming holes. Outnumbered only by the number of oyster farms you’ll spot. Oyster lovers can rejoice. You’ll have access to some of the tastiest, award-winning oysters in Australia.
Our biggest highlight from Merimbula was our morning on the water chasing the migrating whales. Much like the Kiama Blowhole, our prior trips whale watching have been underwhelming. Not here. In the thick of migration season we saw 3 mothers with their calves, and all were up for a show.
It was seeing these whales from our balcony that really inspired us. We’re so glad we did. We joined a tour with Merimbula Marina Ocean Adventure Tours. A 2 hour trip, and we were never short of whales to watch. Obviously there are a number of factors when it comes to whales and when they want to show themselves. On our day though, we were incredibly lucky and got the show of our lifetime.
The whale migration is no secret. This is one tour I’d encourage you to book ahead for if you visit during the migration season.
The coastal garden of Eden
Eden – you made it! Your Sydney to Eden trip is now complete. Eden feels a little like a town that time forgot. You’ll feel that when you see the iconic Hotel Australasia under renovation. I can’t wait to see this restored. Its facade transports you to another era.
Whilst in Eden, you cannot miss a visit to the Eden Killer Whale museum. Those stunning whales you’ve been admiring used to be the biggest industry in Eden. The museum details the history of whale hunting in the region.
You’ll find a skeleton out front of ‘Old Tom’, a killer whale estimated to up to 90 years of age. The skeleton gives you a scary idea of just how big these creatures are. If you’re wandering the museum and hear the WW2 air siren, you’re in luck. Whales have been spotted, so head outside and enjoy the show. Entry is $12, payable at the door.
More cheese at Bega
A slight detour from our Sydney to Eden itinerary. Not really on the coast, but only a 20 minute drive from Tathra is the cheese haven of Bega.
This is fertile dairy country and Bega is one of the best known cheese brands in Australia. Here you’ll find the Bega Cheese Heritage Centre, next door to the factory. If you enjoyed Bodalla Diary, you’ll enjoy this as well. Sample some cheese, taste some peanut butter and vegemite or enjoy a cheese toastie. Head upstairs and have a stroll around the museum which is free to enter. You’ll learn about the history of cheese making in the area throughout the last hundred years.
A side trip for some platypus spotting
Another slight detour. Not quite the Sapphire Coast, but not quite anywhere to be perfectly honest, is the small town of Bombala. About an hour inland, this small town has some very cool old facades. A stroll along Main Street will give you cause to wonder about the town’s history and what transpired here.
The real gem in this town however is its platypus reserve. We found ourselves realising that neither of us had ever seen a platypus in the wild. A shock for two proud Australians! Our visit to Bombala was to change all that. We arrived shortly after lunch to read that the platypus enjoy coming out at dusk and dawn. Not the middle of the day. So with a heavy heart, we decided to wait 15 minutes to see if we’d have a stroke of luck.
A stroke of luck indeed, and from high on our lookout we saw a V shaped ripple appear on the other side of the river.
I ran close to the river bed as the single platypus swam towards me. He duck dived (or is that platypus dived?) and hung out below the surface for minutes. The only signal he was there, the few bubbles regularly appearing.
It was a real thrill for us, but was almost a disappointment. If you do head here, try to arrive earlier or late to maximise your chances. And if you can’t, be patient and keep your eyes on the water.
It’s a little out of the way on this Sydney to Eden itinerary, but it’s a detour we think is worth making.
Still looking for more to do on the Sapphire Coast? Check out our comprehensive guide to the best things to do on the Sapphire Coast.
A few notes on our Sydney to Eden road trip
You won’t find many coastal walks. Development in these parts usually steered clear of the beach front. This isn’t an issue and helps with maintaining wildlife. It is different to the more developed beaches of the South Coast however.
There is not a lot in between towns. You’ll be driving through plenty of scrublands. Make sure you fill up or have supplies. Don’t let your fuel dial run close to the edge in these parts.
These are quiet towns. And that means that not everything is open. Before you make dinner plans, make sure you know the restaurant is open. We found one we wanted to eat at, and it was closed Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday. So best to be prepared.
Where to stay on the Sapphire Coast
Accommodation is plentiful along this coast. There are varieties of caravan parks, motels and cabin resorts. Merimbula has the most options when it comes to accommodation.
The Tathra Beach House Apartments suited us perfectly. We chose Tathra as it was a little quieter and secluded. Access to other towns was very easy as well.
When to visit the Sapphire Coast
We visited the Sapphire Coast in October/November. This coastal stretch during the warmer months is a magnificent destination. You’re also most likely during this period to see the migrating whales.
Winter can be quite cold along these parts. The views are still excellent, but if you’re planning on a lot of swimming, well, you’re a brave soul. Expect nature to still be pretty, but you’ll need layers for sure.
Peak time here is over the summer school holidays when folks call the coast home for a few weeks at a time. You can expect prices to be a lot higher here, and availability can be quite challenging. It’s the type of place where people ensure their Christmas holidays are booked ahead of schedule. This means securing accommodation during peak periods can be problematic.
We hope you enjoyed our Sydney to Eden road trip itinerary. There are so many stops along the way, the biggest difficulty will be identifying where not to stop. Have you done the drive? Have we missed any of your favourite places?
Thanks Jeff for such a descriptive useful article on the your trip to Eden. Despite the long months in lockdown I’ve not felt the need to get away (with our garden & my art), but on stumbling upon your fantastic photos (where I had to initially click on to discover where it was taken) and hearing about all the great spots to visit (many that were new to me), I’m itching to get on THAT road again!
Thanks Elizabeth, very glad you found it useful! It’s such a fantastic trip. We had historically always avoided it when driving south because of the time it would add to trips south. Took us way too long to discover it, but have made the trip 3 times since! Such a great drive, natural sights and drop in venues too.
Look forward to hearing about your trip when you can finally scratch that itch – let us know if you find any other gems along the way 🙂
OK! Have been down & up that way but you’ve added so much more to see!